Magento CommerceHandweavers Guild of America

Twill Gamp Directions

Information provided by Marcy Petrini

Twill Gamp Directions

Threading

These directions are for a gamp with a loom width of 36”, using 5/2 mercerized cotton sett at 18, for a total of 648 warp ends. Allow 70” for warp length, plus loom waste. Use the following order of twill patterns and the specified number of warp ends. The threading for each block of twill follows.

Pattern

Ends/repeat

Balancing ends

# repeats

Total ends

Straight Twill

4

 

10

40

Pointed Twill

6

1

10

61

Rosepath Twill

8

1

10

81

Goose Eye Twill

14

7

9

133

Rambler Rose Twill

16

5

9

149

Birds Eye Twill

8

1

10

81

Reverse Pointed Twill

6

1

10

61

Broken Twill

4

2

10

42


Straight Twill

     

4

repeat

   

3

 
 

2

   

1

     


Pointed Twill

     

4

   

repeat end with 1

   

3

 

3

 
 

2

     

2

1

         


Rosepath Twill

4

     

4

     

repeat end with 4

     

3

 

3

   
   

2

     

2

 
 

1

         

1


Goose-Eye Twill

     

4

     

4

         

4

repeat and balance pattern

   

3

 

3

     

3

     

3

 
 

2

     

2

     

2

 

2

   

1

         

1

     

1

     


Rambler Rose

         

4

                 

4

repeat and balance pattern

   

3

     

3

     

3

     

3

 
 

2

 

2

     

2

 

2

 

2

 

2

   

1

     

1

     

1

     

1

     


Birds’ Eye Twill

     

4

 

4

   

repeat end with 1

   

3

     

3

 
 

2

         

2

1

     

1

     


Reverse Pointed Twill

4

         

repeat end with 4

 

3

     

3

   

2

 

2

 
     

1

   


Broken (Transposed) Twill

   

4

 

Repeat end with 1 2

     

3

 

2

   

1

     


Note that the balancing threads 1, 2 are used because this twill is at the selvage edge, and adding 1, 2 will avoid having to use a floating selvage. The warp begins with a thread on an odd shaft (1) and ends with a thread on an even shaft (2). In weaving, enter the shuttle on the side of the warp where the first thread is down. This will catch the edge threads.

Treadling Tromp As Writ

Rather than making a gamp that is 36” by 36”, a more pleasing proportion is to treadle each block 1 ½ time its width. For example, for the straight twill, the width of the block is approximately 2 ¼”. Treadle according to the directions below, until the length of the block is 3 ⅜” to 3 ½”.

Straight Twill
  1 & 2  
  2 & 3  
  3 & 4  
  4 & 1 repeat
Pointed Twill
  1 & 2  
  2 & 3  
  3 & 4  
  4 & 1  
  3 & 4  
  2 & 3 repeat
end with 1 & 2  
Reverse Pointed Twill
  4 & 1  
  3 & 4  
  2 & 3  
  1 & 2  
  2 & 3  
  3 & 4 repeat
end with 4 & 1  

 

Broken (Transposed) Twill
  1 & 2  
  2 & 3  
  4 & 1  
  3 & 4 repeat
 
Note: this will produce a straight twill on this threading. The straight twill treadling will produce a broken twill.
Rosepath Twill
  4 & 1  
  1 & 2  
  2 & 3  
  3 & 4  
  4 & 1  
  3 & 4  
  2 & 3  
  1 & 2 repeat
end with 4 & 1  
Birds’ Eye Twill
  1 & 2  
  2 & 3  
  3 & 4  
  4 & 1  
  1 & 2  
  4 & 1  
  3 & 4  
  2 & 3 repeat
end with 1 & 2  

 

Goose-Eye Twill
  1 & 2  
  2 & 3  
  3 & 4  
  4 & 1  
  3 & 4  
  2 & 3  
  1 & 2  
  4 & 1  
  3 & 4  
  2 & 3  
  1 & 2  
  2 & 3  
  3 & 4  
  4 & 1 repeat
  balance pattern
Rambler Rose
  1 & 2  
  2 & 3  
  3 & 4  
  2 & 3  
  1 & 2  
  4 & 1  
  3 & 4  
  2 & 3  
  1 & 2  
  2 & 3  
  3 & 4  
  2 & 3  
  1 & 2  
  2 & 3  
  3 & 4  
  4 & 1 repeat
  balance pattern


To see the patterns clearly, I like to use one color for the warp, another for the weft. I also like to visually separate each block so that I distinguish each pattern. To do this, I use a third color with which I thread the last thread of each block and the first thread of the subsequent block. When treadling, I use this third color for the last shot of each block and the first shot of the subsequent block.