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Right From The Start
Information provided by Marcy Petrini
Things You Need to Start Weaving
(in order of use, not of importance)
- Loom. 36 inch or 45 inch wide,
jack or counterbalance floor model (see article for details).
- Warping board or reel. It
does not come with the loom. Boards are relatively easy to make
by a good woodworker. Make sure that the pegs are sturdy and
will not bend.
- Thread for winding the warp,
and a project sheet with the number of threads and the length
of each to wind (see weavespindye.org for details on project
planning).
- Warp (back) rod. It is generally
part of the loom. If lost or bent, it can be replaced with a
dowel, but make sure that the dowel is sturdy enough. Metal specialty
stores can sometimes cut metal rods to size.
- Lease sticks, if warping from
the back toward the front and, in some cases, lease stick holders.
Lease sticks usually come with the loom.
- Replacing them can be hard,
because they usually require holes on the edge to hold them together.
Readily available lengths of finished wood, like yard sticks,
do not usually work well because they can splinter when holes
are drilled in them.
- Assorted cords, shoelaces,
and key chains to hold lease sticks, raddles, etc. They do not
come with the loom, and they are easy to assemble, but make sure
you have them at hand before starting to warp!
- Raddle, if warping from the
back to the front. It does not come with the loom and is generally
easy to make, but make sure that the spacing is consistent throughout
the raddle. If making the raddle, also make sure that the wood
used does not splinter, and that the finish is smooth enough
so that warp threads will not snag.
- Corrugated cardboard roll
or paper to separate layers of warp on the warp beam. Some people
use sticks. Do not use newspaper, because it is messy. Brown
paper bags work if nothing else is available.
- Threading hook, if you use
oneÑusually necessary with metal heddles. It may come
with the loom. Relatively easy to replace, but make sure you
have one handy.
- Enough heddles for the project.
Count ahead of time, and center them. Be particularly careful
of weave structures that require an unequal number of heddles
per shaft. Make sure that the heddles are not rusted.
- Sleying hook. It may come
with the loom. Some use the threading hook for sleying as well.
- Reed. Stainless steel is best,
and a must in humid places, as they can rust. Rusted reeds can
be cleaned, but the task is not pleasant and a minor oversight
can ruin a fabric. Start with a versatile 12 ends per inch reed.
One reed usually comes with the loom. Threads in the reed can
be doubled, and even tripled, or dents can be skipped to decrease
the sett. The next reed to get is 10 ends per inch. These two
together cover a lot of setts. For those who like very open weaves
or textured warps, a 5 or an 8 is a good next choice.
- Cloth (front) rod. Same consideration
as the warp or back rod. Usually comes with the loom.
- Treadles correctly tied, and
tied for efficient weaving.
- Bench. It does not normally
come with the loom, but one is absolutely necessary. A stool
or piano bench may work. Chairs can sometimes work. Make sure
that the height and clearance is right for you, or backache or
hip pain can result.
- Weft thread. This, too, should
have been decided when project planning.
- Shuttles. One may come with
the loom. It is good to have an assortment of shuttles, and the
right type and size makes for smoother weaving (for more on shuttles
see Right from the Start, 102, Spring 1995). A bobbin or boat
shuttle requires a bobbin winder.
Happy Weaving!