Right From The Start

Information provided by Marcy Petrini

Learning to Weave 2

Two extra shafts (an odd and an even) make possible the addition of a plain weave band down the length of the fabric to any weaving structure. The threading alternates the odd and the even shafts, either at the edges or anywhere the weaver wishes. If the treadling of the original weaving structure calls for an even number of shots for a repeat, the treadling of the plain weave, odd vs. even, is simply added to the treadling of the structure. See SS&D, "Right from the Start", Summer 2000, 21-23, for more details.

A complication occurs whenever a structure with an odd number of treadling repeats is combined with plain weave, which has an even number of repeats. A 5-shaft satin is a good example of this complication and it is used below as an example, although the process can be used for any structure with an odd number of treadling repeats.

Adding Plain Weave to Satins

A 5-shaft satin is threaded 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and treadled: 1, 3, 5, 2, 4. Plain weave is threaded on shafts 6 & 7, and treadled alternating the two shafts.

 To combine the two:

1	6
3	7	repeat since the satin treadling continues
5	6
2	7	repeat since the satin treadling continues
4	6
	7

But the combination doesn't come out even, so the satin treadling must be repeated:

1	6
3	7
5	6
2	7
4	6
1	7
3	6
5	7
2	6
4	7

Repeating the satin treadling twice, and the plain weave five times works, but 10 treadles are needed to weave efficiently. This is usually not a problem as 8-shaft looms are usually equipped with 10 treadles.

Using this method, plain weave can be added to any structure, as long as two additional shafts are available. We can think of the structure, in the case above the satin, as being woven on the “front” loom, and the plain weave woven on the “back” loom.

Sample of a satin and plain weave (sample woven by Judy Anderson)

The drawdown for the above sample:

Combining Other Structures

This principle of the “front” loom and the “back” loom can be expanded to make the “back” loom weave any structure for which there are enough shafts. This is how blocks of twills are produced.

Using this thought process, on an 8-shaft loom, two straight twills can be threaded, 1, 2, 3, 4 on the front loom; and 5, 6, 7, 8 on the back. Treadling a 2/2/2/2 twill wouldn't be any different than treadling a 2/2 twill on 4 shafts. But, having two looms means that the front loom can weave a 3/1 twill and a back loom can weave a 1/3 twill, as follows:

Front Loom		Back Loom
1 & 2 & 3		5
2 & 3 & 4		6
3 & 4 & 1		7
4 & 1 & 2		8

In the tie-up, the front and back looms are tied together, and the treadling proceeds in order:

1 & 2 & 3 & 5

2 & 3 & 4 & 6

3 & 4 & 1 & 7

4 & 1 & 2 & 8

The blocks can then be switched, so that the front loom weaves a 1/3 twill and the back loom weaves a 3/1, as follows:

Front Loom		Back Loom
1		5 & 6 & 7
2		6 & 7 & 8
3		7 & 8 & 5
4		8 & 5 & 6

The tie-up for the two combined is:

1 & 5 & 6 & 7

2 & 6 & 7 & 8

3 & 7 & 8 & 5

4 & 8 & 5 & 6

Thus, on 8 shafts, two blocks of twills can be woven with 8 treadles. For variation, the direction of the twill can be changed. The front loom can be threaded as usual; the back loom can be threaded 8, 7, 6, 5, thus facing the front loom twill.

Any two twills can be used in this manner, or a twill can be combined with other unit weaves, in addition to adding plain weave.