Information supplied by Linda Hendrickson

Peter Collingwood became intrigued by the unusual structures. His book, The Techniques of Ply-Split Braiding, is the result of six extended trips to India over a period of ten years to research and document this craft of the camel herders. One of the challenges of writing his book was precisely what to call the structures. Peter consulted with the renowned Swiss braiding expert Noemi Speiser, and after much debating and agonizing over the nuances of terminology, they agreed on these terms.

Ply-Split Darning (as opposed to ply-split braiding) is found all over the world, and has been used to make items such as belts in Greece, headbands in Nepal, mats in South Africa, and back straps for weaving in Guatemala. There are two sets of elements that have a warp/weft relationship to each other. In ply-split darning, some cords lie parallel to the selvedge, while others split them at a right angle.

Ply-Split Braiding involves only one set of elements, which lie at an angle to the selvedge. When any cord reaches the selvedge, it changes direction and heads for the opposite selvedge. Whenever two cords meet, one splits the other. There are usually three structures in ply-split braiding (POT, TLOI, and SCOT), that, especially when combined, create an astonishing variety of designs.

Plain Oblique Twining (POT) is a very stable structure where each cord alternately splits and is split, with a quarter-twist between splittings. The surface texture looks superficially like plain or basket weave. Designs with two or more colors in POT include diamonds, triangles, and hairlines, and many appear similar to plaids and braided twills.

Two-Layered Oblique Interlacing (TLOI) is typically created with 2-color cords plied AABB, and like POT, each cord alternately splits and is split. To create two separate layers, one dark and one light, no twist is left between splittings. When a half-twist is left between splittings, the colors are exchanged, and the layers are joined at that point. Motifs can be graphed on squared graph paper, turned 45 degrees. Any design, no matter how complex, will show identically on the two sides of the fabric with the colors reversed.

Single-Course Oblique Twining (SCOT) is a technique in which one cord splits many. The surface can be smooth or ridged, depending on how the cords are split. SCOT lends itself beautifully to shaped braids with curves and angles, spiraling squares, vessels, open meshwork, and organic sculptural forms.

Splitting the plies is the essential maneuver in which a splitting tool, such as a latch hook or the fingers, creates an opening between the plies of a cord. Another cord can then be pulled through the opening.

Leaving a quarter-twist between successive splittings is the most common way to split the plies of 4-ply cords. In SCOT, this produces a smooth surface. To leave a quarter-twist, grasp the cord to be split with your left hand, very near where it was split in the previous row, and observe the position of the plies. You may want to slightly untwist the cord to see the plies clearly. With the latch hook, pick up the first ply that is coming from underneath the splitter, and the first ply that is lying on top of the splitter.

Leaving a half-twist between successive splittings produces a ridged surface in SCOT, and exchanges the colors in TLOI. It is also used for the first splitting after a braid has been turned over to create a neater edge. Grasp the cord as above, and with the latch hook, pick up the two plies that are coming from underneath the splitter.

A warping wand feeds yarn smoothly and prevents it from tangling. It can be made with a piece of lattice about 24 inches long with four evenly spaced holes drilled in it. It should be clamped to the table next to the outend, tensioned between the drill hook and the outend. With the cone of yarn on the floor directly underneath the warping wand, bring the yarn up through one of the holes. If using multiple strands, four cones of yarn can be used, each strand going through a separate hole.

Cordmaking The process of creating plied cords. It involves the same two steps as making twisted fringe for scarves or rugs, initial overtwist (IOT) and controlled countertwist (CCT).

Cordmaker A twisting device used to make plied cords. This can be a drill with a single hook, or a geared hand or electric tool with multiple hooks.

Outend The furthest point away from the twisting device. Yarn is tensioned between the cordmaker and the outend.

Initial overtwist (IOT) The first of two steps in cordmaking. Yarn is held under tension and twisted with a cordmaker. All plies must be twisted in the same direction. As the twisting continues, the yarn length decreases, usually 10% to 25%, depending on the desired tightness of the cord.

Controlled countertwist (CCT) The second of two steps in cordmaking. The individual overtwisted plies are turned together in the opposite direction of IOT.